Tuesday, September 2, 2014

Bears and Lions…I’m Off the Beaten Path!

Mountain lions and brown bears – have you ‘lost it’ Ron? What in the world do those animals have to do with Home Inspections and WDO/Structural Pest Inspections? Well, I guess I am off the beaten path with this message, but I thought it was important enough to share this information with you for you and your family’s safety. With our Tuolumne County ‘reeling’ from and coping with the after affects of the just one year past Rim Fire and now the 3rd year of severe drought, we as residents aren’t the only one’s suffering from these catastrophic events. The animals that normally live quite happily and healthy in the forests have either been displaced (if they were lucky enough to have escaped) by the Rim Fire, or are now struggling to find adequate food and water to survive in what’s left of the forest. Hence the reason for this ‘off the path’ message, the animals are moving into our neighborhoods and close by areas in search of that food and water, which in the case of bears and mountain lions presents a real safety issue for us if we were unfortunate enough to encounter them. As hard as it may be to believe, there have been reports and sightings of some mountain lions roaming around all the way down to the south Modesto neighborhoods. So, I’ve put together a list of tips that may help lessen the chance that you may actually be enticing these animals to come visit your property (and damage it or you possibly) through inadvertent acts that you may be doing that seem normal or not an issue. They are: · Don’t leave trash, groceries or pet/animal feed in your car or truck · Secure your garbage in bear-proof cans and do not drag them out to the curb until the morning of the garbage collection day · Harvest any ripe fruit you may have on your fruit trees and make sure you collect any fallen fruit · Do not use bird feeders · Keep barbecue grills clean and stored away when not in use · Don’t leave any scented products out on your decks or patios (like suntan lotion or candles) · Keep you doors and windows closed and locked, or at least secured against entry · Install motion activated devices like alarms, sprinklers and/or electric fencing where appropriate · Remove shrubs and debris piles in your yard that can provide hiding places for mountain lions · Make sure your landscaping is of a deer resistant variety of plants and install high (8’ or so) fencing around garden areas · Do not leave small children or pets unattended outdoors · Keep pet food and water containers/dishes indoors · Secure any livestock that you may have in secure and sturdy enclosures · And finally, I’m not one for ‘telling on someone’, but if you can’t or don’t want to approach and discuss why it is a very bad practice to feed wildlife with a person that is doing so, you can call 888-334-2258 to report the situation if you wish to. Also, for more tips you can go to www.keepmewild.com .

Sunday, August 3, 2014

How About Proactive Rather Than Reactive?

Since the beginning of time, pest control has been almost completely reactive rather than proactive. It kind of stands to reason that someone isn’t going to be really motivated to do anything about ‘a something’ until it occurs. But, maybe we’re ‘missing the boat’ here. Not only that, but those that do have a pest problem and go on a ‘control service’ or get involved in a repair project, just what does that then equate to for their surrounding environment? When it comes to wood pest problems, just how could a person be proactive so that they don’t have to find themselves in a reactive situation? Probably the first thing to do would be to look over your home and try to identify and list where termites or dry rot would most likely occur. I think I would probably start be slowly circling the house a couple of times and carefully look for any soil or debris that has accumulated against any wood members or that has gotten to a point that is near or above the top of the foundation and/or support piers. While excavating and re-grading the soil and debris down and away from the wood members, piers and foundations, I would make sure that grade has ‘fall’ (slope) away from the structure and that there are no low areas or depressions that can collect and hold water. I would also make sure that the roof rain gutter downspouts have some sort of provision to drain and flow out away from the foundations and structure in general. Next I’d probably look close at all of the exterior components of the home and note their condition and if there are any cracks or openings in the siding, trim, windows and doors, which I would then secure, caulk, seal and paint to avoid pests and moisture intrusion. Going through the interior of the home would be mostly just a search for any kind of leaks or moisture accumulation and any sort of deterioration that may have occurred to the floor or wall coverings due to moisture. Finally would come the not so fun part of crawling under the house and looking closely for any earth to wood contacts and removing and wood, paper, cardboard or old tree roots that might be scattered on the soil, which attracts termites. I’d make sure to pay considerable attention to the plumbing pipes for leaks as well as checking closely under the bathrooms’ and kitchen floors for moisture issues and/or deterioration of the wood members. Don’t forget to closely look in the garage, especially along the base of the walls where the ‘cold joint’ crack exists between the concrete floor and the concrete foundation. The cold joint crack is where the termites like to emerge from especially if you’ve made the mistake of placing cardboard boxes or other cellulose materials that they like to eat over the crack. If you were to do these things you probably could avoid most, but not all, of the issues that can lead to wood pests and dry rot. “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure,” which were the famous words of Ben Franklin.

Friday, July 4, 2014

To ‘Treat’ or not to ‘Treat’, that is the question

We live in a time and society of ‘it has to happen now…I mean RIGHT NOW! Or else!’ But, maybe that is working against us – big time. I mean, we see a bug in our home or garden and out comes all of the artillery we can find…cans of sprays, dusts and jells all the way to the use of a hammer until that nasty ‘Ole bug is eradicated. Was, is it really all necessary? Just what is the ‘by product’/fallout from the use of all of those chemicals on our home environment or our garden, or, how about we ourselves for that fact? One thing that gets real active this time of year is ants. Get lazy and leave some sort of food scrap out on the counter or a spill that is not cleaned up real well and suddenly the hoards have descended out of seemingly nowhere and are swarming all over everything. I do not hold a general pest (Branch 2) license, so I’m not going to discuss the multitude of ants that can plague people because that is not my expertise. But I do want to discuss carpenter ants, which do fall under the purview of Structural Pest Control Branch 3 licenses, and that I do have. This is the time of year that carpenter ants are active, especially for people with homes above 3000 feet elevation. Carpenter ants do not eat wood, but they do excavate it, usually to make a safe nesting site or passageway. Typical treatment materials and methods that might be employed against termites are not usually very effective against carpenter ants as the treatment chemicals are designed to be ingested to work, which the carpenter ant won’t do as they are not eating the wood. But carpenter ants are attracted to moisture and decaying wood, as it is easier to excavate. However, they can be found in new wood and wood low in moisture also. Foraging carpenter ants are many times found in and around kitchens and bathrooms. If they are active and setting up a nest or satellite colony, most of the time the main indicator will be an accumulation of wood fragments (not dust) and usually body parts of dead ants in areas or piles on the floor. To avoid a carpenter ant infestation in your home, the best things to consider doing is to inspect for and correct any and all water leaks and/or water intrusion points in and around the house. Also clearing and trimming back foliage and tree limbs around the home structure and foundations will make access more difficult for the ants. Removing severely decayed trees and buried wood from the property are also initial steps to take to avoid a carpenter ant infestation. As carpenter ants clean up decaying and decayed wood, are an important food source for birds and animals, and are predators of defoliating caterpillars, a rush to chemically treat and eliminate any carpenter ant in sight on your property may well not be the right or smart thing to do! Take all things into consideration before ‘pulling’ the chemical treatment ‘trigger’.

Monday, May 12, 2014

As we head out of spring into summer…

For those of us here in the mountain counties region, but specifically the Tuolumne County area that is served by Tuolumne Utilities District (T.U.D.) for our water, the up and coming summer and fall seasons really look pretty bleak for those of us who have yards with plants/vegetation we’ve planted and care about, lawns, fruit trees and/or veggie gardens. What with the Phase Three water restrictions enacted by T.U.D. due to the drought conditions and the resulting required 50% cut back on water usage by T.U.D. customers, keeping our yard vegetation alive, let alone healthy, will be a daunting task. Anyone watching this drought situation unfold over the past year or more should have been planning for the worst-case scenario long before now. But, if you are like a lot of us, you kept hoping all winter for the best (rain/snow) only to find out that we didn’t get near enough. Sure the wet weather in March and April helped, but it was too little too late. So what to do now that reality is staring us right in the face? First, and most importantly, get a mind set that this IS for real and if you want things growing in your yard at the end of 2014, you need to go into immediate action now even though it really is late. Start by spreading a thick layer of mulch around all of the plants and trees you want to save. This will help keep what moisture that is in the soil there longer, help starve out from sun light weeds that will compete for that moisture, and, help keep the soil temperature cooler as the long hot summer days come on. An added bonus will be that over time, as the mulch decomposes, it will turn into nutrients for the plants and trees that you spread it around. Next, examine the method you’ve been using to water your yard. If it has been by a hose or broadcast sprinkler, those methods will ‘not fly’ with the Phase Three water restrictions in place. The lawns…well, forget them, as you are not allowed to water lawns under Phase Three. You can carry water to your plants/trees in a bucket, but that is a ‘pain’. Your best bet is to seriously consider installing (if you haven’t already) a drip watering system. These systems work wonders and are very miserly in their water use when installed properly. However, they can pose a safety issue to your potable water system if you don’t install them correctly and a ‘backflow’ condition is allowed to occur. Making absolutely sure that the air breaker valves are installed at least six (6) inches above the highest irrigation outlet will help avoid a backflow occurrence. Installing backflow valves at the point of connection to the potable water connection will also help. Always follow the drip watering systems manufacturers instructions to a “T” to avoid contamination of your house potable water system and the possible sickening or worse of your family should backflow contamination occur.